shirakawa

the road trip up to the mountains of gifu prefecture was beautiful on every twist of the road. the world heritage site (as of 1995) consists of around 4 traditional villages with the only examples of gashho-style houses left in japan. some have been moved to the villages, due to the extensive damming in the valley over the last half century. the main highways that now connect the area to the outside world mean that there is certainly a flood of tourists if not water. the roads, highways that they are, are still with incredible inclines which are a reminder of the remoteness and height to which you travel.

As with shikoku the rivers running through the valley are emerald green which are almost a contrast to the deciduous trees which go from river bed to mountain top. because of the height here though, many mountains are stone topped with some remaining snow in may.

the houses are all function. the steep roofs, likened to praying hands and with a heavy thatch, help repel the snow which falls heavily in winter. I believe another reason for unesco stepping in was to help with grants for re-roofing. it really isn't cheap and is required about every 30 years. living below, the upper level at the apex of the building, was used to rear silkworms. the open fire would also help conserve the wood and thatch with open floor boards alowing the smoke to permiate the floors.

Ogimachi-go is the main village which sees streams of tiour buses, but is big enough to allow you escape the main drag and find some of the abundant serenity which this place has in plenty. the back drop is just relaxing and it's nice to see it all working as a real community.

We also travelled to Ainokura-go which is in an even more remote setting and sitting on a plateau high above the river. again the views are stunning and to live there even now would seem like paradise. the hard labour of the land though, reminds you of the tough everyday life - slightly changed now by the tourist economy. Its size though, in comparison to the amount of tourists is a bit scary. perhaps this example of the japanese having their convenience can be put into question. i just felt a bit bad or uncomfortable being there - wondering what the locals made of it all. most were smiley but living beside a building site in central Osaka and only really getting peace at night, I wondered if it was a bit the same for them. our neighbouring building will finish by the end of the year though, but when the snow thaws next march, the community in ainokura will have to open their doors to another load of strangers.

At least though - all eyes are focussed on an endagered area and at least it won't fall into disrepair.....