dragon flies and graves

I was going to 'do' rokkosan today (the mountain between kobe and osaka) but again opted for a different route which didn't involve trains. I wasn't dissapointed though - in the end I rode the skyline road which runs along the eastern mountain range, the length of Osaka from north to south. the sun was away and there had been heavy, heavy rain this morning. it reminded me of riding in scotland when you have so many dillemas about what to take with you - waterproof? arm protectors? sunglasses? over shoes? anyway - at the last moment I opted for the slightly bulky waterproof in the back pocket. needless to say the sun came out about 15 minutes later.

the idle along the riverbank is a nice warm up before climbing and I think this is very typically japanese. anyway, after about 5 minutes of leaving the congestion you're surrounded by vinyards, gorges and dragonflies that are more like dragons than flies. this experience is also very typical of here - the contrast is very much japan. living on such a raped little plain its always nice to remember what the rest of japan is like - and it's easy to find. (see continue reading - below)

the ridge is by and large a quiet area with campsites, wee resevoirs - natural and otherwise - with old men fishing and being a quiet 'b'-road in the mountians, there was the occaisional discarded television and porno mag at the side. funny how modern life is the same everywhere, eh?

at a viewing point I met a family including three generations of women, and while we exchanged a little banter I did a good job of hiding my poor japanese - its amazing what confidence can do. when the wind whipped up the muggy morning humidity the 'mother' described it as tasty - which I appreciated, and agreed with. I wish I'd said peko-peko, a phrase I learnt last week which means 'I'm starving'.

after the view point was a big cemetery, and being Obon just now (ancestors day), there were perhaps a few more cars than usual but not enough to disrupt a nice run.

so the ridge road was good - if a little hot. I look like I've fallen asleep on the beach again. I'm going to get a dvd - so I'll gauge my colour on how many shocked expressions I see.

the route I took for anyone in osaka wanting to do it is about 40 miles and takes about 2hrs45mins. you could alter this any which way - the main thing is that the roads are all pretty quiet. to get to the ridge there is an initial steep climb which will possibly require an extra pair of lungs. its worth it though.

the route starts at the Yamato river just south of Nagai - from there you continue east along the bike path until you reach kashiwara at the foot of the mountains. when you reach kashiwara just keep straight on the bike path (it kinda veers south for a mile) until you reach a road crossing. cross the road and continue for a mile or so before taking the left up the 183. after a few miles of climbing which will feel like 10, take a left on the first main road - it doesn't actually have a number and just seems to be refered to as the skyline road. its more of a steady climb for a while before you reach some viewpoints after about another 5 miles. continue north on the ridge as far as you wish.