oni / bean combo

As we hit the quiet back roads in the mountains, on this morning's ride, I could see crushed beans all over the road - remanents from yesterday's setsubun festival. I headed to the local temple with friends at about 9 last night and we soaked up the atmosphere. Everyone was out to celebrate the equinox and the full moon shining in the distance was both a reminder of the old lunar calendar and of how cold it was. The stalls ("de-misay") are half the attraction - Abiko fills with hundreds of them, selling everything from toy guns to delicious castella sponge cake - a Portugese import which is very popular at festivals. It's kids heaven. I had some taiyaki - a fish-shaped sponge with red bean paste (anko) inside.

We bought crackers from this wee guy who looked like Dominique Pinon in Delicatessen. He heated and worked the hard, translucent rice over a flame and it got big and opaque - while he did so he stared into female's eyes and puckered his lips / winked. It was as disturbing as it sounds but funny enough for us to part with 200 yen. The fact he was smiling and had an identity was more than could be said for most of the stalls although the Clooney-esque looks on his T-shirt had given way to more of a middle aged, beer-belly feel.