Dorogawa onsen

The most emotional trip of my visit to Japan was cycling to Dorogawa Onsen. I was barely back from Iwate before heading out from Nanba on my way down toward the mountains of south Nara. I went alone as Dan had been inundated with work - a big blow but it meant that I could have his bike and helmet. I stopped in for new brake blocks at Everwin and then headed for the mizukoshi Pass which would take me over to Nara. The weather was perfect and the further I got out of Osaka, the happier I became. Osaka is no city for cycling but the surrounding mountains are ideal.

Over into Nara is easy riding to begin with despite being on narrow roads with big trucks and their heavy loads. By the time you get to Yoshinoguchi the map tells you that you've not too far to go. Then you start climbing and climbing. And climbing. I like climbing - but this got ridiculous. I stopped when the road split onto the quiet 48 and picked up provisions of youkan and a pot noodle. just in case. The climbing continued and kept going and then the ears popped. There really wasn't anything on the road - just lots of pine twigs. certainly few cars. Thankfully I was going up hill and so I kept warm - as the altitude grew, so the sun dipped and it got steadily colder. The views from near the top were just stunning. layers and layers of water-coloured mountain ranges disappearing into the distance.

I struggled to the tiny, pitch black tunnel at the top and descended to Dorogawa town itself. Every picture I had in my head of where it could sit on the road, and the road itself were completely underestimated. Thankfully so too was my vision of how lovely a place it might be - it was georgous. With a frost descending and dusk approaching I tried my luck with the ryokans (I hadn't made a reservation). A theme started developing after the first two inns apologised but sent me away. Season had finished in November and this was December 1st. Eventually, and picking the nicest gaff on the street, I got lucky with one place which were gearing up for a staff party. I think they took pity to be honest. It was an amazing place like you couldn't imagine - then multiply that by a very hard 6 hours in the saddle and it looks even rosier. A hot bath later, a few cans of beer, my pot noodle and a Paul Newman flick and I was out for the count.

next mornings breakfast was the proper fuel I had forgotten I needed the previous day. I could have happily stayed there for a week.

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