TWO ISLANDS AND A SUNSET

LOCHRANZA - CRAIGNURE
65 miles

The guy we shared a room with insisted on sharing his Nescafe with us and couldn't understand why we were packing so early to get our ferry. Thankfully the coffee stop we had planned (less than half a mile away) coincided with the ferry leaving 35 minutes before we thought it would leave and, forcing the gangway back down, we managed to hop aboard. Already we had reached a part of the country where common decency and courtesy prevails over timetables. The moral of the story (aside checking your timetable properly) is being a coffee snob pays off in more ways than the obvious.

Having a head-start to the day we rolled over the hill to Kennacraig and then again to Tarbert - a fine location for breakfast proper (the porridge with protein powder was more function than taste sensation). Having had our legs tested already we started the wet journey north to Lochgilphead which had been an intended lunch stop but with heads down and not many miles in we cracked on and to our pleasant surprise the weather broke somewhat and the road toward Oban was not as hilly as forecast. There were certainly some big bumps but by the time we got to Ardfern we had covered good ground and were happy to take an extended lunch. The Hotel there was great - very good homemade food and friendly service. Ross was flat out trying to remind his back of the standing position and Chris had been struggling with his new, over tight pedals. We had a local of sorts to chat to and fellow patrons tipped their caps in acknowledgment. Perhaps they'd heard we were heading north.

The best, or worst, climbing - depending on your standpoint - was on the short leg from Ardfern to Oban. Thankfully it also came with amazing views. It was the first stretch of road that came with the suffix 'Pass' so I suppose we were ready but, again, and at the end of the day and with full belly - it took quite a bit of stamping on the pedals. Chris had a couple of comedy moments of failing to unclip and dropping from a standstill into the verge by the side of the road. Ross had found that 'dancing' on the pedals was easier than an arched back so there had been some progress. After an eternity of climbing we suddenly dropped off the hill and into Oban before we knew it - a full 2 hours before the ferry was due. We had a couple of Lagers, turned our noses up and took the 6 o'clock over to Mull.

Craignure awaited and Pennygate lodge was ideal if a little warm. We washed in the lovely bathroom overlooking the harbour and moaned at our legs (or rather they moaned at us) before heading to the local inn - which was at bursting point - for dinner. We ended the day shattered from the two Lagers and were treated to a sunset for dessert. Being horizontal felt good as we agreed to an easier day to Tobermory when we awoke.