Bealach na ba

Shieldaig - Applecross - Bealach na ba - Shieldaig
50 miles

Despite the weather getting better as we neared our destination, it would have had to have improved considerably to shake off the wet and mirky conditions which hung over us from the Forth bridges to north Perthshire. In the end we settled for what was not an unpleasant September day on the Applecross peninsula. The views started to take over from conversation and Gregor was keen to swap accelarator for the other, rotating type of pedal. Shieldaig is a lovely wee village with its houses hugging the shore overlooking the nearby island in the cove.

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Posted by stupot at 07:11 PM Sunday 14 Sep | Post comment (0) comments

Strontian

Headed up to the bunk house at Strontian for the weekend with Ross and Calum for fishing in Morven and Coran. The night fishing for Dogfish with toads and Stag enroute was amazing even if the weather was mediocre. Ross' poncho kept us dry though and most of the rain was quick to pass. Calum's expertise allowed us to pick the right spots and at one point Ross had 5 mackarel on his line. We got some polock as well but they're not quite so much fun to reel in.

Posted by stupot at 09:18 PM Monday 25 Aug | Post comment (0) comments

Real Slow

I really love trains. Seeing my dad off on the old fossil fuel locomotives with their compartments, the means of escape to the big city as a teenager, the way to travel through Europe by seeing places and meeting people, the disbelief of a shinkansen approaching for the first time, getting on one as you would a plane and seeing the sky when you bank, sitting at a table with an ever changing view and having no-where to go. gradually arriving somewhere and understanding the climate, architecture and agriculture before you meet the people.

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Posted by stupot at 10:17 AM Friday 25 Jul | Post comment (0) comments

Kopenhaven Torsday - Fredag

a day of trains. a peaceful roll through the countryside. helsingborg. malmo. danmark. turbines. blustery beach houses. grey to sun and back. houses growing out of fields. no roads. different rocks. feminine pylons. off at Kopenhaven. dirty air. white caps on trucks. drunk. hotel in red light district. confusing tourist information prices. beer in 7-11. manic streets. fast bikes. incredible buildings. wide streets. amusement park. timeout. side streets are needed. sit with a beer and people watch. rickshaws scream by with tanned bear chested drivers. best chicken and bacon roll ever. six quid but.

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Posted by stupot at 01:12 AM Sunday 29 Jun | Post comment (0) comments

Goteborg Mandag - Onsday

Another Ryanair field. very local. Big port small city. Grey. Eastern block. Clean. Ordered. No yellow lines. steep ramps. expensive. fast police exotic noises. bikes and trams from no where. mopeds on pavements. Italian meal. near the docks. change of clothes. out drinking. most with coffee under a blanket.

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Posted by stupot at 12:36 AM Thursday 26 Jun | Post comment (0) comments

Air Na Morthirean

ILE - TAIRBEART - TIGNABRUAICH - GLEANNDARUEL Dist: 45miles

After the day off and an early ferry to catch, I wasn't enamoured by the young trees being thrashed about outside the window. If ever it had looked like rain it was now. I had a quiet breakfast and left my food for others before packing well and applying some Ralgex I'd been forced to by at the end of day two. For almost half the journey I kept small and ground round the pedals but by the time I reached Bridgend - a nice wee village at the mouth of the loch - the clouds had lightened and I changed direction to take the high road to Pt Ellen. It was a bit like the never ending road of dips but soon enough, after passing the occasional car with sleeping wean in rear, I was going downhill and heading for the ferry. I was made a roll in the spar by a man who seemed to resent the business but his staff kept me entertained by the young girl, whilst unpacking crates of cheap brandy, asking the time-served one - "so why is it they like this so much?" - "Compared to whisky?........... It's got more of a kick."
And with that I left this whisky mecca and rolled on to the ferry waiting for me just around the corner.

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Posted by stupot at 07:16 PM Saturday 31 May | Post comment (0) comments

UISGE BEATHA

ILE - REST DAY

I woke up to a little bit of wind. The Guiness I thought.
It was also breezy outside - something that was becoming as typical a part of the day as the sun was, breaking though mid to late morning. for the first time on the trip I made my own eggs and bacon in the generous sized kitchen. Pans and crockery were laid out with military precision and after I'd turned out the fluorescent strips in the dining room I could relax and look out the windows to the hypnotic swaying of the trees and rolling waves. A friendly fellow from East Kilbride and a Swedish Chef shared breakfast with me and we discussed our respective days.

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Posted by stupot at 08:12 PM Friday 30 May | Post comment (0) comments

caol

MUILL - OBAN - ILE DIST: 31miles

On Wednesday morning more sun was waiting in the morning but with a little more breeze as I headed the 15 or so miles to Craignure. The reason for not staying longer in Mull was to catch the weekly ferry which leaves Oban for Islay via Colonsay. The road is busier on the north west coast of Mull and fairly uneventful but the views across to Morvern and eventually right up to Ben Nevis were a sight for sore legs. I met a man called Willie MacGregor at Craignure who it turned out owned the pub I was having my coffee outside of. We got talking and it turned out he knew Mairi, who I sit beside at work. He shouted over her dad, Archie, and explained. We had a nice wee chat before he went back to checking tickets for the 13:30. Willie told me a little more about Craignurite and I headed off for the ferry.

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Posted by stupot at 07:00 PM Thursday 29 May | Post comment (0) comments

Sreath Bhean-ntan

TOBAR MHOIRE - CALGARY BAIGH- ARDNACROSS DIST: 42 miles

Second day cycling and another morning bathed in sun. I really couldn't believe my luck. There was a lot of whistling going on as I rolled out of the hostel to pick up breakfast from the deli on the front. I popped in to check ferry times and had a good blether with the harbour master who it turned out was a keen road racer. I should have known from the wirey figure and scorched nose. He told me some welcome tales of the fabled Bealach na Ba hill climb of which the guy from the garage won last year. He also filled me in on my days cycle ahead which was useful.

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Posted by stupot at 06:57 PM Wednesday 28 May | Post comment (0) comments

Leth-Eilean

GEARASTAN - TOBAR MHOIRE DIST: 61miles

It's been a long winter. The sun deprivation was getting to me. Scotland's not the first place you might choose for guaranteed rays but if you get it, you get it good. May is always a good bet and it didn't disappoint. I started the Islands tour the day after Jeni and George's Ceilidh in West Kilbride to celebrate the new vets opening - a great time was had by all but it has to be said that young lassies cannae burl no more. The seventy year olds were throwing us 'round the hall!

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Posted by stupot at 06:35 PM Tuesday 27 May | Post comment (0) comments

not ready for the off

Jesus - I didn't do anything for the first quarter of the year and now everything seems to be snowballing into a few weeks. I got some new panniers for my road trip which is rapidly approaching with what feels like very little preparation or thought. What with being busy with work and downed by lurgy at the weekend. I've an exhibition opening Thursday and then I'm back to the art school Friday. Ceilidh on Saturday and then it's off to the Islands. The panniers are lovely things - hand made Canadian numbers very generously gifted to me by my mother. I was almost certain I was going to buy the same Ortliebs I had before but the build and accessibility of these Arkels was too much to pass on. They've a lifetime guarantee and the Heath-Robinson device for mounting to your rack may look crude but holds the bags rock solid - no noisy jumping around behind you. So the bags are great - not sure how the legs are though.....

Posted by stupot at 02:17 AM Tuesday 13 May | Post comment (0) comments

island hopping

Route planning for a May excursion up the west coast taking in Ardnamurchan, Mull, Iona, Colonsay, Islay, Tighnabruaich and Dunoon. Any suggestions welcome.

Posted by stupot at 04:26 PM Sunday 6 Apr | Post comment (0) comments

hip knits

Spent a few days at the Museum of Costume last week down in New Abbey, quite near the biking meccas of, the unusually named, Ae and Mabie. The build went well and the scenery on the way down past Moffat was beautiful. Should you be near Dumfries in the summer - do pop in - the home baking is apparently legendary.

Posted by stupot at 12:59 AM Thursday 27 Mar | Post comment (0) comments

....just left the building

Waiting for a delayed flight this afternoon I was reminded how much the local airport has changed over the years. It still retains it's 50's charm though - with the hanging, sherical speakers of the PA system and the tall, glazed facade. My lasting memory as a child is seeing off the Canadian contingent of the family in the days when going to the airport really was an event and when Prestwick used to look like something out of 'catch me if you can'. Incredibly the Ryan air hub still lives off Elvis' visit from the sixties and there's even an Elvis bar. I think it's all good fun but you wonder if there's not something about the local area you might try and sell more. When I rode back into ayrshire on the bike yesterday I was reminded that the county's slogan is 'gateway to Arran'. As kind to the island as that is, you feel that being simply a transition point doesn't quite do the place justice!

Posted by stupot at 06:37 PM Monday 29 Oct | Post comment (0) comments

fossil fuels

Coal certainly seems to have been the running theme over the past few days. With the visiting Japanese, the first half of the week was devoted soley to seeing the west coast. We first visited the mighty Mount Stuart house on Bute (funded largely by coal sales) and then today we headed to Mallaig on the Jacobite Steam Engine also powered by the black stuff - flakes of which are landing on me as I write, through the old slide windows above the table. The type of train is one which I just remember as a child when our local village station still had two functioning platforms, a bridge and a waiting room. We'd see my Dad off to work having his ticket inspected and boarding through a narrow, hinged door with handle, two steps up. Now that everyone drives and our railway stations have become lifeless and trains sterile, it was nice to remember how we used to do it. Some of the best views in Scotland were helped by the rare summers day and after a picnic overlooking the harbour, we headed back to Fort William on the Hogwarts Express.

Posted by stupot at 09:17 AM Wednesday 15 Aug | Post comment (0) comments

swim, fish, drink, sleep

As Dave finally reached maturity we decided to surprise him by taking him to a cottage on the other side of Arran for the week. The fishing rods were packed, the weather held and fortunately birthday boy remembered his hair straighteners. So no tears. Carradale, between Tarbert and Campbeltown, was a great place to chill out with all of us bringing our respective weights on shoulders but managing to discuss possibilities for a more ideal future. We had a few walks planned with the OS maps at the ready but we found that sitting fishing with a beer and good company was at least on par with a good walk, though perhaps even better. Despite the allergy I can see myself getting down the pier of a sunny eve to catch maw and paw's tea - great meditation. Ross and I managed to get in for a few dips in the sea before dinner on two days - invigorating stuff and partially x-rated. In the evenings we played with alcohol and abused the wii. So Callum didn't manage to work off the beer belly but quality time it certainly was.

Posted by stupot at 08:42 PM Wednesday 25 Jul | Post comment (0) comments

edgy

I had lunch in one of these nice 21st century places that serves decent food the other day. You know - like Toast or Pret or somewhere like that. Growing in popularity but at complete odds with the traditional British mentality of waxy chocolate and prawn cocktails. I was sitting across from Harrods on Brompton Road and got in a quick drawing with my coffee. I also drew a nice jewellers on Old Bond Street despite being constantly sized up by the well dressed security, who seemed to think I was casing the street. It reminded me of the Blackadder episode where he orchestrates getting an MP blind-drunk and gets him in bed with a prostitute before ordering Baldrick to fetch "the fastest draughtsman in London town" to document the scene for blackmail pruposes. One of the security guys stood across the road eyeing me side on before walking very slowly over, passing me and hanging around behind me like a bad smell. Another came a few minutes later in the calm, slow walk that is surely much less subtle than they believe it to be. The two lingered together behind me before I told them they were making me nervous, smiled and they eventually meandered away to size up a bus party of primary school children.

Posted by stupot at 01:16 PM Tuesday 10 Jul | Post comment (0) comments

Grand Depart

Last week was spent in Londres at a good friends house, aiding the current work-load. It felt a lot like being at art school again. In more ways than one. As with the general positive feelings of being back in Britain, London was much more refreshing than last I remember it. There was a buzz that the Tour de France, Wimbledon and peak tourist season can't help but make and the rain tried but ultimately failed to dampen the spirits. After an epic studio move on Sunday, I spent Monday and Tuesday taking photographs of the stormy skies and drawing around the city. Wednesday to Friday was fairly solid work before I headed over to the opening ceremony of the Tour in Charing Cross.

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Posted by stupot at 11:38 AM Tuesday 10 Jul | Post comment (0) comments

hjaltland

The ferry we sailed on from Aberdeen was pretty new so it eased the 'moderate' sea levels for the more weak stomached amongst us as we chased the sun up to Shetland. Mid summer is, after all, only three weeks away. Actually, the lack of darkness has been by far the biggest shock of moving back to summer time. Three years on I still instinctively remember that I have to give the shed door a very well timed kick while locking it yet the nights being light until eleven had just left my system.
The crossing was only a little bumpy but nothing a few pints of eighty and a couple cinnarazine couldn't sort out. When we arrived on Thursday morning the wonderful calm of Island life could already be felt: the loudness of the birds, the wash of the tide, the narrow closs' of Lerwick with fishing nets lying at out to dry, the deserted, white beaches. You can have a peerie peek.

Posted by stupot at 11:05 PM Sunday 3 Jun | Post comment (0) comments

spring on the east coast

Had a blast catching up with the NYC faction of the old Art school crew. I'll try and write up the trip but I've at least gotten around to uploading a flckr set. Hope everyone reading this in Japan is well.

Posted by stupot at 11:53 PM Thursday 17 May | Post comment (0) comments

nimotsu

So time is running away at speed yet I'm sitting around inside on a day when the whole Japanese archipelago is dowsed in rain. When you combine that with all the talk about new Scottish leaders north and south of the Border in Britain, and design events happening all over Scotland, I feel like it's an opportune time to be heading back. There's even this happening to one of the local castles.

I've sent off one bike and four boxes of 'stuff' - this time I ended up shipping by Japan post opposed to Nittsu which I'd used before. There were issues with my bike and it was certainly cheaper to Japan than from. If you're using this service just bear in mind weight and dimension constraints. For me this was L+B+B+H+H = <3M and <30kgs. I managed to just get the bike box down to this size without taking the pedals off. The picture shows the bike before I took the derailleur off and spacers between the forks ends. I used this site for tips. I'm taking my good bike with me on the plane. And I'll be crossing my fingers.

Posted by stupot at 02:26 PM Sunday 6 May | Post comment (0) comments

kyoto

you can see some photo's of kyoto here.

Posted by stupot at 03:28 PM Thursday 19 Apr | Post comment (0) comments

akemashite omedetou gozaimasu!

Happy New Year!

Headed to Kyoto to visit a friend of a friend on new years day. The city centre was heaving so we picked up some omiyage and headed for the bus to take us north. We arrived just before dinner and the house could have been in any country - the 3 generations watching holiday TV almost oblivious to each other - the younger ones sending emails on their cell phone/sleeping under the heated coffee table and a slightly bewildered looking granny wondering where I fitted into the family celebrations. I was kind of thinking the same. It was very nice to have been invited to the new years dinner and the fussing mother, playing her role perfectly, had prepared far too much.

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Posted by stupot at 06:51 PM Tuesday 2 Jan | Post comment (0) comments

sheep

Having heard so many glowing reports I decided to go to the 'illuminarie' event in Sannomiya with a friend. I later found out it's been going every year since the Hanshin earthquake in an attempt to attract business to the once ruined city, and bring people it certainly does. In the middle Saturday of December 600,000 people flocked to see the lights and so I was quite excited about the prospect of seeing such a spectacle on my birthday.

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Posted by stupot at 01:27 AM Saturday 30 Dec | Post comment (0) comments

the damp

Damp is not a word I often associate with Japan. Glasgow yes, Osaka no. Okay, so August here feels like the inside of a Ugandan greenhouse, but winter is generally the exact opposite - dry to the point of walls creaking. We kind of missed out on early autumn this year instead jumping rather abruptly into a late cold, grey and dreich time of it and not being the biggest fan of the local electric heat sources, I've eschewed the heaters so far but my bloody clothes aren't drying on their own. Yesterday I took the fast train through to Tokyo and it being 12.30, the lunch boxes were broken out immediately. Good looking people ate beautiful but healthy food on the fastest train in the world and I considered I might be coming out my recent Japan slump. Despite the train being full of scowling charcoal (possibly myself included), I was beside an ageing woman who reminded me of a child riding a train in that way that the very elderly do because there's a bloody good chance it'll be their last time. She continually pointed out the colours and (very) low lying mist, which were indeed a beautiful combination. She never tired of it and I wished that I would spare more time to do the same. It rather put things in perspective. I wanted to have a deep discussion with her about life but I settled for pinning her against the window, when her daughter went to the toilet, demanding laundry tips.

Posted by stupot at 07:39 PM Wednesday 22 Nov | Post comment (0) comments

big kurashiki

We had a relaxing morning on the island before heading back to Okayama via the minimal ferry terminal, a tiny passenger ferry and another dirty wee ramen shop, where Fred got a lesson in how to make gyoza from one of the two old biddies running the place. We made Kyoto on the Nozomi in no time and were beside some very rich kids doing their daily homework routine on the 200km ride to Osaka. Fred and I were going to get their trainers off them, or at least their dinner money, but alas the shinkansen was too fast. We arrived in Higashiyama, just south of Gion, in the dark but the lanes were lit with that glow of a hundred years ago.

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Posted by stupot at 05:15 PM Thursday 2 Nov | Post comment (0) comments

naoshima

If you ask a visitor about Naoshima they'll possibly know of it. If you ask a Japanese the chances are much more slim. It's one of the hundreds of islands between shikoku and honshu and, perhaps typically, is part industrial (recycling centre) and part unspoilt. We were staying at the swanky Bennesse house hotel on the south coast which was just beside the two art galleries also designed by Ando (a treat from my folks). The coast and nearby village has a scattering of installations and sculpture which make the place a wee bit like the set of the prisoner.

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Posted by stupot at 05:29 PM Tuesday 31 Oct | Post comment (0) comments

castles made of sand

Headed south to himeji on monday to check out what all the fuss is about - going to the castle there was the most important visit for my nephew and I'd also always wanted to go. We ambled down from osaka on a semi express and it gave us a chance to see the less industrial coast of hyogo which was looking great in the unseasonably warm weather. The castle jutts out amongst the usual barrage of roof top signs which are colourful enough even when the pluga are out. It was understandable why we couldn't initially see it but soon enough the immense scale becomes obvious.

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Posted by stupot at 05:15 PM Tuesday 31 Oct | Post comment (0) comments

osaka university of arts

With the family visiting we decided to go see the inlaws at Taishi. Taishi is a tiny village and historically important for its' namesake (a former prince) but now it's mainly noted because of the two peaks on the skyline behind it, a nearby Ando museum and a large shrine. it is also home to Osaka Geidai. There was a mini carnival yesterday when it opened its huge concrete doors to the public for a peek inside. There was loud, live music and wee stalls selling wares but the competition of food stalls was overwhelming and the lengths people, generally by dressing outrageously, would go to attract your attention certainly worked. I guess it coincided with this weeks national culture holiday on friday.

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Posted by stupot at 04:53 PM Sunday 29 Oct | Post comment (0) comments

kyoto really is nice

went to see alastair yesterday, who's been in town to lecture at one of the uni's. his late summer visits have become an annual event and we always find time for a few beers when he gets to kansai. coming to kyoto about twice a year, alastair's pretty well versed on happening spaces and we went to a few great cafes and restaurants.

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Posted by stupot at 05:16 PM Sunday 3 Sep | Post comment (0) comments

shimano road race - suzuka

back for 6 hours after hokkaido and then out again at 4am to head to mie for the shimano road race. fortunately we had booked an airconditioned room behind the pits which, presumably, the teams use when suzuka is used for its better known event. I also got to sleep in the car and had a single room awaiting me at the hotel which were blessings. we arrived early enough for a few laps to get to know the circuit and just after lunch we had the 4 up team time trial (4TTT). having ridden at an easy pace for a week I was raring to go and found myself pacing the other two after we dropped our slow man (we've all been there). we ended about 4 minutes back from the leaders and a third of the way down in the results table which didn't seem too bad. the kit that even the beginner riders have in japan still amazes me - the kids too are decked out with quality frames - bet they don't even have a paper round.

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Posted by stupot at 12:55 AM Monday 28 Aug | Post comment (2) comments

hokkaido: day 12 - this is what it must be like to be retired

DEST: YACHIYO/CHITOSE DIST: 130KMS

on wednesday the schedule was somewhat shorter than our average getting to our hostel just south of obihiro and the foot of more mountains by 5pm. we made a civilisation stop after the rain started - had a big mac and then went to the flicks. it was great - like a traditional british holiday. we also topped up on our cash before spending a couple of days in the sticks. the hostel turned out to be clean and new if slightly unlived in. the countryside was like east lothian near edinburgh but without the nice farmhouses and their red tiled roofs. everything built is pretty much prefab here, soley to take the weight of the snow each winter. function without form. our hosts were jolly osakans who had left the rat race a few years earlier and it has to be said they now have a sweet little thing up here.

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Posted by stupot at 12:04 PM Saturday 26 Aug | Post comment (2) comments

hokkaido: day 10 - d'you think the'll be a disco in Ikeda?

DEST: IKEDA DIST: 120KM'S

leaving kushiro was both a relief and a disappointment. relief we were only passing through, disappointment that the har was only just covering the industrial wasteland that surrounded it. we started singing a bad karaoke version of everyday is like sunday. our daily wrong turning didn't help spirits and with a lack of landscape, quiet roads and sun for 40 km's we decided to jump on the train. there was a lull in the traffic as we drew up to the side of the road to study the map and as we turned to look up a shire type mini valley, a pair of tsuru, long and elegant, flew past.

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Posted by stupot at 12:26 AM Tuesday 22 Aug | Post comment (0) comments

hokkaido: day 6 - seriously, what the fuck was that noise?

DEST: MASSHUKO DIST: 150KMS

monday morning. yesterday was a very long day and toward the end, a little scary - we headed down from the national park after climbing for an hour to the pass and descended down through the valley passing more tat and ice cream shops with stuffed bears outside - the vibrant colours couldn't hide the fact that most were dilapidated and the foxes chained up outside really didn't charm us. countryside was nice though - still european but a bit more danish than french. we got the train station just in time for the 1.10 to masshu and managed to waive putting our bikes in the bag hassle. dan reckoned the knee could withstand the gentle climb up from bihiro though so we jumped ship and made our way out of town.

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Posted by stupot at 10:45 PM Monday 21 Aug | Post comment (0) comments

hokkaido: day 4 - d'you remember catchphrase?

DEST: SOUNKYOU DIST: 112KMS

rest day in the mountains. yesterday was another long one but we managed up to our hostel in the mountains by 6.30, just as the sun was going down. the scenery was lovely - changing from lush tuscan hills in the morning to a dramatic alpine rocky gorge by the evening and we stopped in between for some scolding ramen carbs. thankfully the climb wasn't too steep either as dan's knee was causing him a fair amount of pain. the mist sitting on the river helped to take the edge off the final few kilometres and sounkyou ended up being a lot nicer than the guide books make out but then your perspective is always different when you've had a long day in the saddle. our simple bath and dinner last night was all we yearned for in the world and the woman who showed us to our family sized tatami room, an angel.

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Posted by stupot at 10:12 PM Saturday 19 Aug | Post comment (0) comments

hokkaido: day 2 - it's definitely left after the tunnel

DEST: FURANO DIST: 130KMS

Dan's mate junko, and her man, picked us up from the port in otaru and we headed back to their flat in south sapporo. we had a few local beers while we looked over the map and altered our course slightly, choosing a nice campsite for the final night as they glared, initially, open eyed and taking sharp, serious intakes of breath at our route. today we got our bikes together, took the obligatory photo and headed off around 10. the road out was pretty busy but we had a tail wind and made the foot of the mountains at a leisurely pace, taking in all the peculiar sights (local graphics, cows, chimneys, elevated fuel tanks in gardens) and trying to get an initial feel for the place as dan taught me animal words I didn't know - kitsune (fox) and kuma (bear).

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Posted by stupot at 09:14 PM Thursday 17 Aug | Post comment (0) comments

hokkaido: day 1 - what time is it?

DEST: SAPPORO

both a little weary after a short sleep and not having had a holiday in a while but hoping that arrival in hokkaido will re-energise us. last nights stressful, getting the bikes to the ferry, bit is over and we're happy to relax on deck watching the wake fade into the distance. osaka is slowing being washed out of our systems and we turn to thoughts of big skies and animals skipping around happily, beneath rainbows. the weather on the japan sea is perfectly fine and naps seem to be in order for the rest of the day - the ferry from maizuru, just north of kyoto takes 21 hours.

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Posted by stupot at 08:56 PM Wednesday 16 Aug | Post comment (0) comments

toukae

went to nara on sunday, a short train ride from osaka but, like kyoto, a world away in terms of pace and beauty. I was with some photographers who were going to snap the lantern festival or 'toukae' (light flower event). the afternoon was very, very hot as we roamed the back streets of what feels more like a big town than a city - the sacred deer which roam the streets only helping to compound the feeling. we ducked into a few places for an air-con breather before heading back out for more. gradually we met up with more people, some by chance, some arranged and walked around all the many parks and ponds and temples that were scattered with lamps. my favourite place was just an undulating park at the back of todaiji temple which felt like a dream or heaven, with lights going almost as far as you could see and people slowly making their way around.

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Posted by stupot at 12:24 PM Tuesday 8 Aug | Post comment (0) comments

hokkaido

dan and I are heading off to hokkaido for ten days from the 15th. we're taking the ferry from maizaru in kyoto, cycling for 9 days and then coming back by plane from chitose. we've been getting out on saturdays to get a feel for distances but we have a feeling that although hokkaido will be a lot less humid, the mountains could give us a shock. most days have been planned in a pretty conservative way though and as it's summer we have a lot of daylight to make use of. we're planning to stay at hostels and the biker houses that hokkaido is famous for. the main reason I'm posting this is to get any idea's from people who have been, so if you have, feel free to tell us about some must-visit places.

Posted by stupot at 02:13 PM Saturday 5 Aug | Post comment (0) comments

tokyotokyoto

I met up with benjamin and satoko in kyoto who managed to make it down for the weekend on their visit from NY to kamakura. it's been two years since I saw ben and the first time I met satoko who was, as I'd suspected, just lovely: we had a wonderfully relaxed time being lazy tourists. on saturday we strolled up the west side of town from kiyomizutera, through gion, and watched the live music being played below the stilted, outdoor restaurants on the river. after checking into our ryokan we had the much anticipated hot bath which ben, never one to pass up the opportunity of getting naked, was really getting into during his brief stay in japan.

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Posted by stupot at 11:24 PM Sunday 23 Jul | Post comment (0) comments

labyrinth

I had a meeting near shibuya today in daikanyama. nice gaff: all the fashion names (APC, 45rpm etc) seem to have their main shops and headquarters there. as a visitor, the yamanote line was an enjoyable exercise in information graphics and whilst tokyo does it much better than osaka, it's also horrifically busy. to be honest it's the first time I've been squeezed solid against others and hopefully I won't do it again in a while. terribly uncivillised. I did take the advantage of groping some young women as I read it was 'de rigueur' last year. the information is great though - exactly what you need: amoungst other things - tv's telling you how long til your next station and where the exits are relative to your carriage. basic, but so rarely available elsewhere. every design student should visit tokyo.

now I've got the weekend in kyoto which will be a welcome relief.

Posted by stupot at 11:55 PM Friday 21 Jul | Post comment (0) comments

omiyage

the reason I previously blogged about takkyubin was because I was reminded about omiyage (souvenir). just my thought process got a bit diverted as it does. yuka is away in taiwan this weekend (the island the japanese foriegn minister recently described as a 'country' whilst in talks with the chinese foriegn minister) but before she went she got a mail order catalogue from sanyodo who specialise in hassle free souvenirs: basically you don't have to go through the inconvenience of searching for and carrying back a present. as easy as it sounds I always thought the personal touch was half the deal, but no, no the japanese simply order or even pre-order. I guess at t he end of the day you don't really care what you get as long as it's sweet/strong and you can eat/drink it.

checking their site, I was impressed to see some beers from my local brewery on Arran included in the British list as well as tacky-tastic terry's chocolate orange: a thing of wonder from my childhood.

I have my fingers crossed for the panda topped tissue box cover but I'll just have to wait and see.

Posted by stupot at 06:33 PM Saturday 24 Jun | Post comment (0) comments

Fujisan - day 2

I woke at 4 o'clock to the sound of a local cockerel who liked the sound of his own voice, having woken me twice before during the night. I'm not the heaviest of sleepers and the window being open certainly didn't help. I turned over after the hundredth 'ko-keeko-ko-' (as they say in japan) and woke fairly soon after to the sound of the hotel alarm I'd set and then again 5 minutes later to the sound of my mobile, flashing and gyrating on the side board which resembled a piece of furniture from the same doll's house as my bath, the portable TV hanging over the side precariously. as I took that special five minutes contemplating the day ahead I realised the other noise I was hearing was rain hitting the fire escape and tree leaves outside and then as I sat up and saw my jersey I realised I was here to climb a very big mountain as fast as my legs would allow......

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Posted by stupot at 01:37 PM Monday 12 Jun | Post comment (0) comments

Fujisan - day 1

to be perfectly honest, I still get that childhood excitement when I ride the shinkansen. everything about it says air travel opposed to just getting on an ordinary train. the sight of a wingless airplane approaching the platform is like going back in time to when trains were really respected for their engineering and speed with the barriers protecting you from the edge of the platform suggesting you are about to experience something altogether more thrilling and exotic. inside - the roof lights, the windows, the food trays - all of the interior is like a plane. when you bank on one of the few, but long corners you see the ground out of one window and sky out of the other. even the conductors are referred to as crew - it's fairly subtle language which works well.

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Posted by stupot at 12:06 PM Monday 12 Jun | Post comment (0) comments

yuka takes leave, gary held back

in the week that saw gary glitter being found guilty of lewd acts in vietnam and tens of thousands protesting against the government in thailand, yuka came back from her week away there, relaxed and none-the-wiser.

the food was, as I'd suspected; exotic; sweet; creamy; hot. her fascination with the seriously sugary vietnamese coffee continues and a trip down the mekong river was as close to a scene out of apocalypse now as we might imagine - the sound of helicopters apparently just out of ear shot.

the sex industry in thailand also lived up to the stereotype and lots of geeky, shady japanese guys were easy to spot around the well known spots in bangkok, salivating over the local product. I have to say it's the reason why I've never been drawn to the country, but yuka loved vietnam and is sure to return although she's not sure how my serious nut and fish allergies would fare. amongst the food brought back was a bag of rambutan, a kind of lychee-like fruit that is opaque in the middle and has a slightly creamy taste.

Posted by stupot at 05:58 PM Sunday 5 Mar | Post comment (0) comments

distant mist and the saga of the chair lift

despite the threatened sun, we ended up on top of a mountain in snow and rain. the snow was pretty, the rain pretty shitty. the day out was superb though - a steep learning curve (or remembering curve) and soon we were carving up the slopes with at least a smidgen of grace. or at least not falling over so much. we were also lapping up the ever changing landscape of mist through mountain tops: due to being a part of it all, we went from low visibility to having the whole range revealed in a matter of minutes.

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Posted by stupot at 11:03 PM Tuesday 21 Feb | Post comment (0) comments

Turn your back for a second......

When I came back from my three week trip there was a house in our neighbourhood, just near the train line, where an empty plot of land had been when I left. It takes getting used to - a neighbourhood that metamorphosises as soon as you turn your back - you have no choice but to move with it. Life also seems to get more disposable by the day - Yuka's already discussing a possible change from her three month old mobile phone.

Continue reading "Turn your back for a second......"
Posted by stupot at 11:17 PM Wednesday 18 Jan | Post comment (0) comments

a day in the desert

thanks to the baggage handling problems at dubai my return to japan was extended by a day in the emirates. a delay in getting home it was but it was also a chance to visit somewhere I might never. when you stay at an airport hotel though it can seem like you are waking up in any city, but the sun being no where near the horizon meant I had definitely said goodbye to the scandinavian winter gloom.

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Posted by stupot at 01:36 AM Sunday 8 Jan | Post comment (0) comments

heavy but good

so since food is the great japanese pastime, and since british cuisine is held with such low regard here, it was nice to try and eat some good food while I was in scotland.

on my first day there I visited the ship inn in irvine (pron. irvin) and had, along with my pint of eighty shilling, lamb shank and vegetables. the food there is unpretentious and wholesome - a bit like the food in general. on my second day I had a lamb curry (the lamb theme tailed off a bit after this) in portobello whilst visiting my sister and it was good to try some dry basmati rice for a change. as well as curry with some heat in it.

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Posted by stupot at 11:21 AM Thursday 5 Jan | Post comment (1) comments

Posted by stupot at 11:57 AM Monday 26 Dec

turkey and toys

christmas is always a great chance to catch up with family, eat a lot and take some time off. this year was certainly no exception whilst visiting scotland. it's nice to see all the traditional decorations - a flashing doraemon climbing up an apartment block in osaka in santa claus outfit is just a bit odd - but then there are no mantlepieces in japan and there really isn't enough room for a real tree.

the temperature in south west scotland was comparable to osaka, which fueled concerned looks by some who didn't realise it could get so cold so near the equator. it doesn't help that japan runs from so far north to so far south, but it's about as near the equator as scotland is the north pole (the popular belief in japan being that scotland is an arctic wasteland).

what was interesting was how dark it got there - if cloudy, it really didn't get particularly light during the day and 9am felt like 7 in japan. a reminder as to why christmas overtook the mid-winter solstice celebrations of old - there's still no escaping the lack of light.

Posted by stupot at 11:56 AM Monday 26 Dec | Post comment (0) comments

Posted by stupot at 10:04 PM Friday 23 Dec

scottish pairlament

when I was visiting edinburgh I took the opportunity to visit the new scottish parliament building. the building wasn't open when we moved to japan and it was a place I'd wanted to visit for what it looked like as much as what it stands for. there's a website in scots for anyone brave enough.

despite having won this years stirling prize for architecture and representing the first parliament in scotland for 300 years, the poor management of the project meant that the budget changed from around 50 million pounds to about 10 times that. the medias almost daily onslaught resulted in the nation being divided over something that was meant to be uniting them. perhaps that says a lot about other issues in scotland too.

having left the bitter controversy behind and viewing the place with fresh eyes the building seemed to be working well - easy to enter, lots of school kids visiting, chance to get into the main chamber to see business suits debating with track suits. it all seemed a world away from even westmister where, a few hundred years ago the same controversy raged over the amount of money it took to build.....

Posted by stupot at 09:43 PM Friday 23 Dec | Post comment (0) comments

Posted by stupot at 03:59 PM Thursday 22 Dec | Post comment (0) comments

a new view

I braved the flight and surprised family and friends coming back to scozia for chrimbo and hogmanay. it's a welcome break and nice to see the wide open spaces I know so well. with the festivities in full swing it is easy to see why people are that bit bigger in the west. the other main oddity is the amount of dog shit everywhere. it takes a keen eye to walk the streets of scotland and remain clean.

I wasn't working up to the visit overly but there was a small list of things to do and try - most of which I've accomplished: many pints of 'heavy' have been downed, many friends and family rooted out and lamb curry had. luckily all have stayed as good as I remember them.

the meetings have been often fleeting but there is much to be said about even the briefest of eye to eye exchanges. the space is a big issue too - I hadn't realised quite how unspoilt the place is, one or two big retail parks remaining the worst of it. houses too blow me away with their high ceilinged, vast rooms.

the main news seems to be same sex marriages becoming legal (with the already infamous headline in one tabloid being 'elton takes david up the aisle') and the impending smoking ban which kicks off in march. luckily, some things change but thankfully the view off the west coast remains unaltered.

Posted by stupot at 03:47 PM Thursday 22 Dec | Post comment (0) comments

Posted by stupot at 12:13 AM Thursday 3 Nov | Post comment (0) comments

old money rules

decimalisation was still happening when I grew up - when I was sent for a 'pound' of potatoes it was very confusing. it's still going on in many parts of the UK: supermarkets enjoy the clever con of measuring packaged meat in grams and unpackaged meat in feet and inches. even drugs come in grams and others, ounces: though that, presumably, is a just a consequence of their origin.

when we were at art school our continually dark and greasy metal workshop was still using the kings foot to measure with (it was like glasgow didn't want to let go of it's heavily industrial past) while just a few paces away and not even seperated by a door was the wood workshop - airy and so contemporary and european with its simple metric system. we actually had to pass a test in old money to use the metalshop because no-one had a bloody clue. cut to yuka, the (then) timid japanese student who was justifyably bewildered by the whole thing. I mean - at least we'd had some contact with double sided rulers and stuff when we were growing up: yuka was still trying to grasp the english language never mind the glaswegian accent and this archaic way of counting.

anyway - the point of all this was that when I was out on the bike last week and found myself on that old trail - I discovered 'Ri' - the old japanese system of measuring distance. never heard of it before. the modern sign told me that the ancient signs used this. as I remember it said the Ri is about 3.9 kms but in any case the japanese have gotten over it. a shame the US and the UK can't do the same.......

Posted by stupot at 11:16 PM Wednesday 2 Nov | Post comment (0) comments

Posted by stupot at 12:06 AM Thursday 20 Oct | Post comment (0) comments

sayamaike

I pass a few industrial concrete buildings on my train ride to work but one sits out on its own, on top of a hill. Sayama pond lies about 30 minutes from Namba station on the Koya line and has been irrigating the land around for 1400 years: it's a very significant place. the museum, a tadao ando creation, is pretty bleak (or magnificent, depending on your stance) in true ando style, but it does have a real section of the levee where you can see all the different stages of growth over the centuries. it seems amazing that the early method of using branches and leaves between layers to prevent landslides is actually pretty close to the modern version of using cloth. the place still felt like a morgue but perhaps that was intentional.
it has to be said though, that I see enough concrete everyday without wishing to see it inside a museum when I'm trying to relax. pesky minimalists.

Posted by stupot at 11:40 PM Wednesday 19 Oct | Post comment (0) comments

glasgow kiss

being away from the big smoke recently meant I could witness manners once again - for one thing, I did a years worth of bowing in three days. in the scottish countryside too, of course, we similarly acknowledge others out of courtesy when there are not many around - but in todays society even this can fall on deaf ears and blind eyes.

the lowered head of a bow is in contrast with the spasm of a nod you receive in scotland - and it's perhaps no coincidence that a fuller and faster version of this can be used, quite successfully, for fighting.

which makes you wonder just how aggressive thrusting a hand in a strangers direction must seem to the japanese. I wondered if the strength of handshake and depth of bow may hold some comparisons but they are very different. the bow is uniform, it conveys a respect and it shows trust in its vulnerability whereas the handshake is quite individual, sometimes secretive and only really conveys levels of confidence. significantly though, the lack of physical contact when bowing describes the less aggressive culture in japan: worlds away from the post-pub, scottish martial art of splitting someones nose open with your forehead. ahhh - the memories.

Posted by stupot at 10:40 PM Monday 3 Oct | Post comment (1) comments

Posted by stupot at 12:47 AM Thursday 29 Sep | Post comment (0) comments

misasa: in search of radium

despite my cheap and cheerful minshuku having onsen, the real hot spring was down by the river, in almost full view of the bridge connecting the two halves of this town. the area is meant to have the lowest cancer rates in japan and as a result a lot of people come here for treatment of various ailments. there's also a seriously out-of-scale hospital here that would look at home in a city.

anyway, with darkness falling, things start getting very busy and visitors and locals alike turn up for a share of the free goodness. although the japanese are comfortable about being seen in the buff, it always helps to turn out the lights. it's a great leveller - nakedness. I met some students from shiga, a local programmer, an english teacher and a german engineer but when you're in the scud you could be anyone: your profession or lifestyle doesn't reckon.

although predominantly a male affair, we were joined by some women - washing on the stones around before plunging into a rather hot, natural tub. in fact you could have boiled an egg in the 'source' pool and it was being regularly doused with cold water. the heat and subsequent fatigue reminded me only of sauna.

wandering envigorated but shattered back to my bed, I passed all the visitors in their yukatas - clacking up and down the narrow street in their geta sandals on their way for a stroll as I realised I only got a brief glimpse of mount daisen, which had been my unofficial grail. but then just sitting in a hot tub under the stars and taking in the fresh mountain air was surely enough.

Posted by stupot at 12:18 AM Thursday 29 Sep | Post comment (0) comments

misasa: hazelnuts and open razors

my first day in tottori was a little longer in the saddle than I had anticipated and so my second day was a much more civilised affair. I did get around to a 4 hour cycle but only after a leisurely breakfast, long lie and a haircut. I decided, before meeting a very interesting barber, that my room smelled of hazelnut. it had been on my mind for the 24 hours since I had arrived, but finally I managed to concentrate enough to filter out the buckwheat, tatami and incense and focus my nose on exactly that. like a song name you can't remember - it was really getting to me.

I was asked by the barbers wife (who shaved me) if I'd done any bird watching on my ride yesterday and I thought it an odd question until I remembered the amount of birds of prey I'd spotted (it's a funny feeling when you're in the middle of nowhere and you look up and something big is circling you). today, after my cut, I saw a few more as I rode up the valley thinking of glaciers going the other way.

It was a good ride toward daisen - the largest mountain this side of fuji - but with the weather closing and still a little fatigued from yesterday, i headed back for an easy descent to misasa. the pointer sisters 'neutron dance' seemed an odd soundtrack amidst such natural beauty, but at 75kph and with lots of corners, you don't really have much choice.

Posted by stupot at 11:42 PM Wednesday 28 Sep | Post comment (0) comments

Posted by stupot at 11:39 PM Wednesday 28 Sep | Post comment (0) comments

misasa: over the hill and far away

it took 4 hours to get to misasa from osaka and despite a very laid back train journey, I immediately dumped the bag in search of a climb. I'd been thinking about this for a few weeks now. the road I took was great but my follow-your-nose technique ended up 140kms later........

the pass I chose was being partially resurfaced and despite doing a pretty good job of off-roading on slick tyres and getting over, my route back on the other side was also being repaired. the road was mostly perfectly smooth though and the views up near the clouds, stunning. my bike and I had endured enough vibration though and so we headed on down toward tottori city - the capital of the county. just before reaching the city I headed back west toward my destination, only to find a bunch of more hills in the way which added some valuable time with the sun getting lower and lower. certainly that sinking feeling. eventually deciding on the coast road for the final run in, my legs managed to keep up momentum and I managed to arrive back in daylight. the last 20 were pretty demanding mentally and physically but the ride was a good one and I knew what was waiting.

misasa onsen itself is a nice enough wee town with a quaint street and many fancy 'ryokan' inns and not so fancy 'minshuku' b&b's. being a cheapskate I opted for the latter and had an absolutely adequate stay in ichinoyu for six grand a night - they even throw in onsen and dinner for the price. I didn't need a beer to put me to sleep but I murdered one in any case.

Posted by stupot at 11:00 PM Wednesday 28 Sep | Post comment (0) comments

Posted by stupot at 12:49 AM Thursday 16 Jun | Post comment (0) comments

koya san

Koyasan is the sacred mountain about an hour or so on the train south of Osaka. it's been holy for about 12 centuries, but then since it's a mountain I guess it's always had a fair bit of respect.

Koya is probably the ideal escape from Osaka - it's a dramatic train and funicular ride through the mountains to 800m, just over the border into Wakayama ken. Koya cho has more than 100 monasteries packed into an incredibly small space, and the weather is far, far cooler at this altitude. this is what also makes it a great cycle.

being a wednesday it was dead. so I visited the massive cemetery of Okunoin which seemed apt. it's a really special place - I remember stepping into it when I came in december on the bike and being in awe, but the light was fading and I had to head off. today all I did was wander its meandering paths in virtual solitude. the air was damp and cool with an almost west of scotland drizzle which was masked by the enormous trees. the light is really unusual as a result of being under the shade of these giants and the lanterns came on very early.

It's generally a very very natural place with ancient gravestones, but the more modern part of the graveyard has huge monoliths marking major corporations (dead workers? or just directors?). they're all there - Nissan, Yakult. quite bizzare looking. it looks like sponsorship in a way, which makes it feel quite natural. in a scary kind of a way.

anyway - a very relaxing way to spend a wednesday afternoon. some green tea, a few rice balls and a good sleep on the train home were just what the doctor ordered.

Posted by stupot at 12:48 AM Thursday 16 Jun | Post comment (0) comments

Posted by stupot at 12:51 AM Wednesday 1 Jun | Post comment (0) comments

aichi expo

I can't remember the bumf but this years world expo uses a theme of sustainability or ecological issues. perhaps thats why it was a tame affair.
not saying tame is bad - oh no. there were beautiful details and it was a good atmosphere. money hadn't been unnecessarily strewn around and people were having fun. thats what everything should be about nowadays - we're just used to having it all bigger, better, higher, faster, newer......

hopefully our generation can rise above all that shite though.

plants and solar panels were constantly in full view but then they should be. some more facts about them all may have helped. or how I could get them for my hoose and sell some of this damn hot sun back to osaka electricity! many Osakans I talked to about expo really weren't all that fussed, and many thought I was refering to osaka '70. but then thats maybe just osakans! I guess it could be likening it to the millenium dome in london except they didn't cut a deep scar in the country side.

the festival site itself is still a good 30 or 40 minutes from Nagoya (it always seems longer on the way back, eh?) and when you think you've arrived (on a typical local commuter line), you are transferred to linmo - a monorail type affair - for the final leg. it seemed a bit convoluted but we got there soon enough. the next port of call was the much discussed in the press, Toyota pavilion. booked all day. okay - the cable car. the queue went relatively quickly and we soon had an unrivalled view of the site. get your bearings.

north europe was probably the most nicely designed area, with the nordic pavilion having a typically minimal but relevant cause. Britain was simple, interactive and had a lovely meadow area to queue in. Austria was chic and included leiderhosen. france and spain were my favourites with colossal projection room and generally captivating exhibition design respectively.

sadly the likes of cambodia, the pacific islands etc were full of plastic trees and tat. even singapore with its fantastic interactive monsoon (they gave you a brolly!) had far too much bling side-by-side plastic herons. quality.

the other let down was the epic queue at the Japan pavilion. grannies ready to duel with parasols for their territory. we weren't hanging around. 2 hours could be better spent. although it didn't work here, the going in the out door trick, much favoured by my father, did work a treat on most occaisions. the gaurd on the japanese pavilion was havin none of it though!

Posted by stupot at 12:49 AM Wednesday 1 Jun | Post comment (0) comments

Posted by stupot at 01:03 PM Friday 20 May | Post comment (1) comments

shirakawa

the road trip up to the mountains of gifu prefecture was beautiful on every twist of the road. the world heritage site (as of 1995) consists of around 4 traditional villages with the only examples of gashho-style houses left in japan. some have been moved to the villages, due to the extensive damming in the valley over the last half century. the main highways that now connect the area to the outside world mean that there is certainly a flood of tourists if not water. the roads, highways that they are, are still with incredible inclines which are a reminder of the remoteness and height to which you travel.

As with shikoku the rivers running through the valley are emerald green which are almost a contrast to the deciduous trees which go from river bed to mountain top. because of the height here though, many mountains are stone topped with some remaining snow in may.

the houses are all function. the steep roofs, likened to praying hands and with a heavy thatch, help repel the snow which falls heavily in winter. I believe another reason for unesco stepping in was to help with grants for re-roofing. it really isn't cheap and is required about every 30 years. living below, the upper level at the apex of the building, was used to rear silkworms. the open fire would also help conserve the wood and thatch with open floor boards alowing the smoke to permiate the floors.

Ogimachi-go is the main village which sees streams of tiour buses, but is big enough to allow you escape the main drag and find some of the abundant serenity which this place has in plenty. the back drop is just relaxing and it's nice to see it all working as a real community.

We also travelled to Ainokura-go which is in an even more remote setting and sitting on a plateau high above the river. again the views are stunning and to live there even now would seem like paradise. the hard labour of the land though, reminds you of the tough everyday life - slightly changed now by the tourist economy. Its size though, in comparison to the amount of tourists is a bit scary. perhaps this example of the japanese having their convenience can be put into question. i just felt a bit bad or uncomfortable being there - wondering what the locals made of it all. most were smiley but living beside a building site in central Osaka and only really getting peace at night, I wondered if it was a bit the same for them. our neighbouring building will finish by the end of the year though, but when the snow thaws next march, the community in ainokura will have to open their doors to another load of strangers.

At least though - all eyes are focussed on an endagered area and at least it won't fall into disrepair.....

Posted by stupot at 01:00 PM Friday 20 May | Post comment (0) comments

Posted by stupot at 11:23 PM Thursday 19 May | Post comment (0) comments

shikoku

certainly on driving through the mountains of central shikoku it was obvious to see the havoc that last years unusually high amount of typhoons had caused, but the quiet roads made for great bike climbing and the onsens (iya in particular) were a perfect tonic for tired limbs and a busy mind. having to take a funicular railway down the 45 degree gorge at snails pace with equally relaxing music to the riverside hotspring made the experience all the more worthwhile. a mid-week visit nearby the oboke gorge post-goldenweek also meant the amount of fellow travellers was relatively small. the food was really extra-ordinary and allergies were generally catered for (despite the usual russian roulette of unidentifiable soup stock). magic.

Posted by stupot at 11:21 PM Thursday 19 May | Post comment (0) comments

Posted by stupot at 10:57 AM Friday 7 Jan | Post comment (0) comments

Ise

a beautiful place to start the year. with its abundance of shrines it makes for a very peaceful visit.

Posted by stupot at 10:55 AM Friday 7 Jan | Post comment (0) comments